Destination Fragrances

Last summer we looked at the slew of seasonal and fresh fragrances that hit the beauty shelves in the spring and summer — a trend that tends to be repeated year after year and which probably does provide a profitable, if short-lived, burst of sales. However, toward the end of the year we started to see a whole new fragrance direction for the coming season and one which, by the burgeoning range of new products, seems as if it might have more staying power and could evoke a sunny mood on a year-round basis.

Escada’s Pacific, Michael Kors’ Island and Burberry’s Brit hit our shelves as part of an onslaught of what we might call location fragrances. As we enter spring, location fragrances have grown and the coming year’s fragrance portfolio is focusing on specific geographical destinations.The big question to consumers and brand owners alike looks likely to be, “Which destination will you be wearing this year?”

What are the hot “destinations” for 2006-2007? What are the real opportunities for brands? I think we are looking for a piece of the far-flung, the exotic, the unusual and the tropical — a paradise oasis far removed from daily life. Some of the smaller and more niche brands are excelling in this arena to deliver an unusual and personal experience.The three single note scents from L’Orient­aliste evoke the fragrant gardens of Marrakech: Rose de l’atlas, Mimosa and Fleur d’oranger. Simply but exquisitely packaged, the scents are contained in small glass atomizers with what appears to be hand-drawn labels. The label design representing that typified by Moroccan Souk architecture or a traditional henna pattern. The names of the scents also appear hand-written.

Interestingly, the popularity of destination scents is not solely confined to the fragrance and bath and body care arenas. As with fragrance, this is the time of year when cosmetic giants launch their spring and summer collections. For example, on shelf already is Stila’s warm shimmer collection and Lancôme’s wrapped in radiance collection. Both are pretty palettes of pinks, apricots, corals and browns and the names, packaging and positioning rigidly follow the pastel and shimmer party-line.

Benefit has also just brought out a new pressed powder to give a soft and rosy glow but unlike the majority of the competition, the company has embraced the destination trend and boldly named the new arrival Dallas.The outer packaging depicts the image of a glowing sunset with the black silhouette of a woman on a rearing horse in front of an iron gate. Benefit has cleverly combined the adventure and healthy, outdoor lifestyle of Dallas with the romance and femininity of Gone With the Wind.

The cosmetics market does currently seem to be split into two distinct camps. Some brands are clearly embracing the new destination trend. Others have stayed true to this sector’s heritage by using a range of generic scents and ingredients that allow the consumer to conjure up their own memories and destinations. However, some new arrivals are doing this better than others.

Comptoir Sud Pacifique has just brought out new fragrance Vanille Pineapple — “a base of warm vanilla sugar, luscious coconut milk and musk polishes off this sparkling scent reminiscent of vacation days,” according to www.sephora.com. This fragrance is marketed on imagination but the packaging design is somewhat ordinary and hence the product and packaging tend not to marry. The label split into two bands of vivid blue and yellow does conjure up sea and sand but is in no way as evocative as the product description and marketing blurb.

In contrast, thebathhut aims to position itself as a brand that “invites you to create your own private oasis where you can float away to your fantasy location at any time and escape your everyday,” according to www.myvani tycase.com. The plain brown glass jars and simple pale pink label with the illustration of a meditative, female figure provides a somewhat timeless modern/retro twist. Nothing is prescriptive and consumers can choose a bath and massage oil in summer sunset or more specifically indulge a memory by choosing a body custard in mango or vanilla or a body lotion in frangipani and lime.

Naturally, it is too soon to tell just how successful destination marketing will be.In fact, the more tried and true routes, which focus on the ingredients, may have more longevity as they allow room for personal expression and for the end user to help create the persona of the brand and to inject his or her own personality and ideas. The brand has room to grow and develop and will not be in danger of running out of new destinations to add to the line extensions.

Regardless of how they are positioning themselves, the trend for either exotic destinations or fragrances shows no signs of abating. But why is this striking such a chord with today’s consumer? We believe that it is not about the destination per se or even the specific fragrance, rather it’s because they are allowing the consumer to connect with a particular time or memory. Today’s technology-driven world has undoubtedly helped us to connect but it is nevertheless providing a connection that is one step removed and, as a result, people are still craving a more personal and intimate connection: the human touch.Touch, encompassing physical, spiritual and mental touch, is a key macro trend for this year and brands need to look at ways to harness the power of touch.

Many of the brands mentioned here have tapped into the power of mental touch but need to harness the power of design to visually establish and promote this mental or spiritual connection. Similarly, brands need to utilize the power of the tactile. MOR cosmetics’ Glitterati range comprises three glamorous locations — Morocco, Tahiti and Ibiza, with each destination range encompassing a complementary body cream, lip gloss and powder puff.The design is standardized, with color and smell used to differentiate between the three locations. MOR has embraced the power of design by additionally considering the use of form, texture and materials. The plastic used for the body cream pot mirrors the shimmer of the lip gloss. The body puff is housed in a jewel topped luxury box, which uses a different textured flower or leaf motif depending upon the country of origin.

The brand needs to touch the consumer so the consumer will want to touch, pick up and buy the product. How? Brands should not look at packaging in isolation but consider new and more tactile ways to use their micro-environments, point-of-purchase displays and packaging, as the key visual and physical touch points for the consumer, to involve, engage and interact and provide an overall sensory experience for their consumer.

Smell may be the key to our holiday memory but look at the big picture. Use all elements of design to help the consumer remember the feel of sand running between the fingertips, the vivid colors, the new shapes and sensations. Design that touches the consumer takes advantage of all the senses and marries visual elements with texture, form, structure, and materials.

Destinations may become less important and something we only dream of once in a while but touch is a basic human, daily need and one which is increasing in significance within the brand arena.Don’t underestimate the power of design in helping your brand to reach out and truly touch the consumer.